Fishing can be inexpensive recreation.  Or, if you are like me, it can get pricey.

In this segment I think we will stick with beach, dock, and dinghy fishing.  In other words, the least expensive type of inshore fishing.  By "beach" I am not referring here to "surf fishing".  To really do well surf fishing you will need some special equipment.  I guess a better term would be "bank fishing".  And, "dock" also means "pier".  There are piers around here that are not docks.  Hello? 

What you need is a rod, reel, fishing line, leader, swivels, bobber, hooks, sinkers, some lures, bait, bait bucket, ice chest and fresh water.  We'll get to the fresh water later.  Oh...you need a fishing license.  The gear here is for general inshore use anywhere.

There are basically three types of rod and reel combinations that are used inshore.  Spinning, fly, and level-wind bait casting.   As you might expect they all have their advantages and disadvantages.  I recommend an open-face spinning outfit for all around inshore fishing.  Although I am a member of Trout Unlimited...a dedicated fly-fishing organization... I have never owned or used a fly rod.  Main reason:  I always outfish the fly rod boys with my spinning rod.

Reel Rule #1: Don't buy a really expensive spinning reel if you are using it in salt water. 

Reel Rule #2: Buy the reel with the simplest design.  Example:  Some open-face spinning reels come with a little switch on the back that reverses the direction of the bail.  Seems like a good idea...but doesn't last long in the salt environment.  And, when it goes, the reel is history.

In my opinion Penn Reels can't be beat as relatively inexpensive, durable saltwater reels.

I am using a Penn Sargus SG5000 open face spinning reel for inshore fishing.  It holds 220 yards of 14 lb. test line, has 5 stainless steel bearings, is made of aluminum and costs around $85.  (Actually, I only paid $40 for mine at a special sale event at a sporting goods store.)  I would put 10-20 lb monofilament line on it.  I don't like braided line for general inshore fishing.

Don't spend a lot of money on a rod either.  Shakespeare makes good, dependable rods at very reasonable prices.  Get a 7 ft, medium action rod that is rated for 10 - 25 lb test line.   If you have the space to store it, get a single piece rod rather that a two piece.  The action is better.

Most of the rest of the stuff you need is called "terminal tackle"...meaning it is used at the end of the monofilament line.  Get a 25 ft spool of fluorocarbon leader in the 25-30 lb range.  Why fluorocarbon?  It is invisible under water.  We would rather that the fish didn't know the bait he is eyeballing is attached to a fishing line.

Next, get a package of small barrel swivels...BLACK barrel swivels.  If you get the shiny silver kind the fish tend to bite them rather than the bait.  I use ball bearing swivels because I can also use them for trolling.  Helps keep the line from getting twisted.

When it comes to hooks, it is always good to have different sizes.  But the basic is a #1 circle hook.  Have lots of those.  They are best for live shrimp and mud minnow baits.  I use nothing but circle hooks.  They almost always hook the fish in the mouth area where it is easily removed and does the minimum harm to a fish you might want to release.

You also need to have a few "popping floats" .  These are cigar or oval shaped floats or bobbers that are mounted on a short piece of stiff wire...usually with beads at either end.  A popping float is tied into your rig between your fishing line and the leader.  When fishing, a gentle jerk of the rod causes the float to run up the stiff wire and make a popping sound...which the experts say sounds like fish feeding and attracts a bite.

To accommodate most types of inshore fishing you probably need to have three types of sinkers.  #1 three ounce egg, #2 three ounce pyramid, and #3 some #0 or #1 split shot sinkers.

LURES:  I use live or fresh dead natural baits 90% of the time...so I am not much good at recommending artificial lures.  I really have tried using artificial...but in 70 years of fishing (I started when I was 6 yrs. old) I have consistently caught more fish with natural baits.  However, you need a selection of jig heads.  These are hooks with weight added.

When fish become sluggish due to some condition...like cold water...they tend to congregate on the bottom...usually in a hole or depression.  Getting your live or dead bait down there is best accomplished with a jig head.

There are many different kinds of live bait buckets.  I use a 5-gallon plastic bucket with a lid that has a hinged door and I equip it with an aerator.  Mine runs off of a 12 volt battery but there are less expensive ones that will operate for about 30 hours on a couple of D batteries.  You must have an aerated bait container to keep shrimp alive.

FRESH WATER: Every time you use fishing gear in saltwater you MUST thoroughly rinse it with fresh water.  Don't pressure the water or you will force the salt down deeper.  Also, never put a swivel or hook back into your tackle tray without rinsing it off.  It will corrode every other metal object in the tray.

With the gear I have just described you are ready to go after just about every inshore species that exists.  LET'S GO FISHIN'!!